Where exactly is the water coming from?
Ask the plumber to show you. A drip from a fitting or the relief valve is a different problem from water seeping out of the tank body, and only one of them can be repaired.
The short answer: if the tank itself is leaking, replace it. If a part has failed and the unit is not near the end of its life, repair it. Everything in between comes down to age, the cost of the part and whether the heater still suits the house.
| What the plumber finds | Repair usually makes sense | Replacement usually makes sense |
|---|---|---|
| Where the water is coming from | A fitting, valve or connection above the tank | The tank shell itself, which cannot be repaired |
| Age decoded from the serial number | Comfortably within its expected service life | At or past the age where failures start repeating |
| The failed component | Element, thermostat, igniter, thermocouple, gas valve or dip tube | Several parts failing together, or parts no longer made |
| Sediment and scale | A flush or a descale restores normal hot water | Heavy corrosion, pitting or rusty water coming from the tank |
| Capacity for the household | The unit still keeps up with the bathrooms in use | The household has grown and the heater never catches up |
| Where it is installed | Garage or exterior closet, where a leak means a wet floor | Hall closet or above finished space, where a failure is costly |
Most no-hot-water calls are repairs. On an electric heater it is usually an element or a thermostat. On a gas unit it is often the thermocouple, the igniter or the gas control valve. A tankless heater that cuts to cold mid-shower very frequently needs descaling rather than replacing, because the minerals in valley water coat the heat exchanger and the unit protects itself by cutting output.
Hot water running out early is its own category, and here it is usually sediment rather than a dying heater. Scale settles in the bottom of the tank, takes up volume that used to hold hot water and insulates the burner from the water above it. A flush and a test will tell you inside the visit. Tempe Emergency Plumber would rather repair a unit with life left in it than sell you one you do not need yet.
What a repair visit actually covers is on our water heater repair page, and no hot water, what to check first walks through the safe checks before you pick up the phone.
A tank leaking from its body is finished. The steel shell corrodes from the inside out, and once it has gone through there is nothing to repair. The same applies when rusty water comes from the hot side only, or when the tank is pitted and weeping at a seam. Running it on risks a full failure, and a full failure in a hall closet means water through ceilings and flooring rather than a puddle on a garage floor.
Age is the other decider, and in this valley it arrives sooner than the brochure suggests. Hard water shortens tank life, and a unit that has never been flushed or had its anode rod replaced ages faster still. Once a heater is near the end of its expected life, money spent on a significant repair buys a short extension with no guarantee on anything else in the unit. If the household has grown or the house has been added to, replacement is also the moment to get the sizing right rather than repeating the same shortage for another decade.
If the unit is already leaking onto a floor, see leak detection and repair to confirm nothing else is contributing, and burst pipe repair if a supply line let go at the same time. Local scheduling details are on our Gilbert and Chandler service pages, and you can always request a visit.
Ask the plumber to show you. A drip from a fitting or the relief valve is a different problem from water seeping out of the tank body, and only one of them can be repaired.
The manufacturing date usually decodes from the serial number on the label. It is the single most useful number in this decision, so ask for it instead of guessing from memory.
Ask for both figures side by side, including anything that has to be brought up to current requirements if the unit is replaced rather than repaired.
If the household or the number of bathrooms has changed since the heater went in, a like-for-like swap will simply repeat the shortage you have been living with.
Tell us the age of the unit and what it is doing, and we will tell you which way it leans.